Dream Road: The Lycian Way - Part 1

Notes On My 1st Stage Experience

"The only obstacle to travel is the threshold of the door." (Bosnian proverb)

My parents were primary school teachers, which is why, as a child, I had the opportunity to visit many villages in different regions of Anatolia. Most of the places where we lived did not even have electricity for the first few years. Our only pastime here was long family walks. My enthusiasm for hiking, which began in the Toros Mountains, continued in the Küre Mountains, and, later, as a part of hiking groups in Ankara. In 2019, I felt it was time to take longer routes. When I started making plans, the first thing that attracted me was the Lycian Way. The reason for this was family ties: relatives on my mother's side lived in this region, and it was very appealing to travel from Fethiye, where I spent every summer vacation and where every corner was full of memories. After a forced year-long break in 2021, I felt that, if I had not started traveling this year, I would never have started again. At that moment, I needed to hit the road immediately.

"If you have already been to Fethiye on vacation, then more than the names of districts, cities, villages, and beaches, you will meet only one word: "Lykia" (Land of Light).

Before I start my story, I think I should first give you a little introduction to the route. The Lycian Way is a trade route that begins at Fethiye-Hisarönü and ends at Geyikbayırı and was first mentioned in Roman sources in 43 AD. It was found by explorer Keith Clow in 1999, has 33 stopping points, and is 535 km long. This is the first walking path discovered in Turkey. It is also named by CNN Travel as one of the “20 Most Beautiful Walking Routes in the World”… This is the topmost pleasant and convenient walking route in the area, compared to the Carian Trail, Phrygian, Trojan, St. Paul's, and Efeler routes.

My original idea was to go on this adventure alone. However, after a bit of research and advice from experienced trackers, the idea that it would be safer to go with a knowledgeable team until I gain experience prevailed. After a long search, we met the traveler and skilled guide Ali Ulucan from Artemis Outdoor, whom I am extremely glad to meet.

Meeting: October 12, Ankara-Fethiye

After the application, which I submitted in September, was reviewed, the date for the start of the tour in October became clear. On the morning of October 12, with great excitement, my wife and I jumped in our car and left Ankara. Fethiye greeted us with terrible rain. Rain videos sent from unknown numbers to the Whatsapp chat created for our group clouded our hearts. However, while we rested with our family before we arrived at the meeting point at the hotel, fortunately, there was no trace of the rain.

Dinner with strangers from Ankara, Istanbul, and Izmir, whom I would later be proud to call my friends, lasted several hours. During the meal, we all probably got scared by the details that our guide told us about the upcoming trip the next day. One has to try hard to gather 16 people, so different and so compatible with each other, from a doctor to a reporter, from an engineer to a lawyer and sales assistant. The feeling of happiness and peace that gripped all of us after meeting is comparable to the one you experience when you like the people you met and worked with on your first day at work.

First Stage: October 13, Hisarönü – Faralya village, 18 km

With dozens of worries in our minds, we left bags of camping gear and clothes with our friends from the support team and began our 63-kilometer adventure with poles in hand. Over time, cloudy weather gave way to a cool but sunny autumn day. We did our first photoshoot in Montana on Lovers' Hill, which, according to our hike leader Ali, "changes its name depending on the nature of the person watching the scenery with you."

Although our journey, which started at sea level, reached 800 meters at the foot of Mount Baba, we were only 300 meters high when we arrived at the campsite in Faralya village, and the Valley of the Butterflies was under our feet in all its glory… When we pitched the tents and finally sat down, we regretted that we had not completed the necessary training, but our fatigue and despair melted away first with the sunset, and then with the ashes from the fire. The feeling was similar to when you do not prepare enough, but you complete an important job without any problems.

The Hardest Stage: October 14, Faralya - Kabak Bay, 13 km covered.

I can say that the route, which we overcame on October 14, was the most challenging stage of our journey. First, we climbed up to 400 meters, then went down a steep descent to the Kabak Bay, and again ascended from 0 to 875 meters. When the first views of the Kabak Bay began to appear from Faralya, we plunged into blue dreams.

We woke up with the information that our leader was 250 meters from the location where we would have lunch. But none of us took into account that it would take 45 minutes to overcome those 250 meters. After dinner, we thought we had done the hard part of the job, and peacefully gave ourselves to swimming.

Then the ascent towards Alınca began. As we moved through the forest, the sounds began to fade, and I remember that for a while the only thing I heard were footsteps in the forest. After each hill that we climbed and thought we had reached the top, another higher hill appeared in front of us.

“It does not matter how far you have walked; you are as strong as the road you have left behind and as weak as the road you have not walked yet.” Boris Vian

I remember two things that gave me strength during the last hour: the mountain goats we saw around and the bungalow we stayed in. With dreams of rest, we climbed to the final height. Despite the difficulties experienced, there were no complaints or feelings of dissatisfaction in the group. We, as a team whose members, from the beginning to the end of the journey, drew their strength from each other, were able to continue the trek without stopping. To the sound of laughter, we got to Alınca. After four hours of climbing, a beautiful view opened before us.

Our day ended with the hours-long conversation at the table after dinner.

Click for Walking in My Dreams: The Lycian Way - Part 2

Emrah Gürel

Author

Has been working as PSSR in Borusan Cat Ankara for 10 years. Is also a certified mountaineer and assistant cook. Amateur hydroponic farmer. Plays basketball and billiards, and goes hiking. A young climber. Camper, a lover of outdoors and animals, who is happy to be a part of nature. Married and has two cats.